4.3 Drive the vehicle until the engine is up to full operating temperature while shifting though all the gears at different rpm. The transmission should engage smoothly without hesitation or a rough engagement. Acceleration and deceleration is the key when determining if there is a problem. If a humming or whining noise is emitting from the transmission (excluding straight cut gears), it's a clear sign that it's time for an overhaul or replacement.
4.4 Does the car sound like a child shaking a soda can full of rocks when making a turn? The culprit could be a busted or worn-down set of CV boots and axels. Crank the steering wheel and poke your head under the wheel well to inspect the inner and outer CV boots. If both are ripped and the CV grease is no where to be seen, it's a sign that the owner has driven the car for some time without a care in the world. Without grease, the CV joints continue to bind, eventually wearing down. As the new owner, you'll have to fork out $500 or more in parts and labor for axels.
5.1 Crank the tires to view the tread wear. Insert a tread-depth tool between the tires treads to measure the remaining rubber (the minimum legal tire tread is 0.0625 inch). Measuring with a penny works, too. Insert the penny with Lincoln's head down. If the top portion of his head is visible, the tires need to be replaced. Always factor in the mileage with the tires' condition: If the car is less than a year old with 10,000 miles and balding tires, you know something about the owner's driving style.
5.2 Run your palm across the tires' surfaces to detect any irregular tread-patterns. A rough or inconsistent patch signals a blown suspension, bad wheel bearings or improper alignment. Improperly worn tires will cause any vehicle to shimmy and shake when driving, not to mention limit traction.
5.3 Does the outer shoulder look worn compared to the inners? Aggressive driving is always the culprit when the edge of the sidewall is badly worn. A tire with the inner steel belt radials protruding indicates the car was previously lowered or driven on an improper alignment. Also check the front cross-member or chassis to ensure the wear pattern wasn't caused by an accident.
6.1 With a friend's or the seller's help, push down on the front fender to test out the suspension. If the suspension is in proper working order, the car should smoothly spring back to its original position. If the damper is blown, the suspension will rebound at a snail's pace or have an awkward stance.
6.2 While jumping up and down on the hood or front bumper, listen for any creaking or clicking noises. Older vehicles suffer from worn-out ball joints and tension rods, making them unresponsive when turning or steering at driving speeds. It's an accident waiting to happen; when the ball joint or rod finally snaps it'll send the vehicle barreling off the road.
6.3 Ask your local garage to put the vehicle on a rack for further inspection. Check the damper's main body for signs of leaking oil. Make sure the main shaft doesn't have any gashes or scrapes. Inspect for oil leaks or drips surrounding the base leading into the main body. Leaks, whether small or large, indicate a busted inner seal or blown damper.
7.1 If you see coolant residue or white water stains on the outside of the overflow tank, inspect the radiator and check for similar symptoms on the outer or inner radiator core. Check for leaks or cracks.
7.2 Does the radiator look fine? Squeeze those radiator hoses. Do they look expanded and bloated or feel soft and mushy? If so, the next problem might be a blown head gasket or leaking transmission cooler.