You've had a month to stop fooling around and get whatever budget-minded K Series engine you plan on using along with its transmission and Hasport's mount kit. Now it's time to install it. You'll need all sorts of bits to make it work and, as it turns out, some bits are a whole lot cheaper than others. Lucky for you, Hasport's willing to share all of this, ultimately saving you hundreds of K Series swap dollars. You can thank them later.
Low-Buck K-Swap: Part 1
Installing the Engine and Transmission
Your Civic was designed so that its engine and transmission may be installed from underneath. You're doing a budget K Series swap, though, which means you can't afford a lift. For the most part, this doesn't change much except for the order in which Hasport's mounts are installed.
Start by bolting Hasport's left-side bracket onto the transmission. You'll need to remove the two studs on top of the transmission case to do this. They won't be reused, so go ahead and chuck them. Don't fully tighten the bracket down; a small amount of play will make lining up the remaining brackets and mounts easier. Attach a hoist to the engine assembly and lower it into place. Next, slip Hasport's rear bracket and left- and right-side mounts into place. Once all of their hardware has been installed, tighten it all down.
Axles, Throttle Cable, Clutch Hydraulics, and More
There's an infinite number of ways to get everything else done, but if you follow Hasport's advice, you can make all of this happen for less. Start with their axles. It's true that you can make your own using a hodgepodge of '02-06 RSX or '02-05 Civic Si shafts and inboard joints along with your Civic pieces, but Hasport's axles are stronger, not terribly expensive, and won't fail like yours probably would. Be sure to use the right intermediate shaft before moving forward; grab one from any '06-11 Civic Si, for example (among other chassis).
You can use whatever throttle cable you've got, but you'll need Hasport's throttle cable bracket to make it work. Without it, you'll never achieve the right amount of tension between the cable's end and its retaining nut.
Unless you're doing something silly like removing your power brake booster, you'll need to connect a section of 3/8-inch vacuum hose from the nipple on the intake manifold to the check valve near the booster. If whatever K Series engine you're using still has its metal distribution line, use it.
The K Series transmission sits on the opposite side of the engine bay, which means your Civic's hydraulic clutch line won't reach. There are as many ways to fix this as there are botched-up K Series swaps. There's only one cheap way that's right, though. Start by relocating the car's original flexible hydraulic clutch line and bracket to the opposite side of the engine bay, someplace below the shock tower on the framerail. Using a section of pre-made, 3/16-inch steel brake line with the appropriate 10x1.0mm fittings, bend up a piece that'll route from the clutch master cylinder to the flexible hose. Reshape the car's original hard line to span from the other end of the flexible hose to the clutch slave cylinder or just get the one you need from the '03-07 Accord for less than eight bucks.
That you're using the less-expensive Honda Accord transmission means shifter assembly solutions are few. Here, there are only two compatible shifter box and shifter cable combinations, but only the '03-07 Accord's is the cheapest. Be sure to source all of this from a four-cylinder model and stay away from anything from any RSX or Civic; such shifter mechanism operate in reverse of the Accord's.
No K Series shifter box will magically bolt up to your Honda Civic's exhaust tunnel, though, and if you're interested in retaining any interior bits around the shifter, you'll need Hasport's special adapter plate to make it all work. But first you've got cutting to do. Use an angle grinder to chop a section out of the exhaust tunnel; Hasport's instructions will tell you exactly where. Next, bolt the shifter box to the adapter plate and the adapter plate to the underside of the chassis. You'll also need to direct the shifter cables from the shifter box to the transmission from underneath.
You might think you need all sorts of fancy fittings and steel-braided hose to get the fuel system sorted out, but you'd be wrong. As it turns out, all you need is an adjustable fuel pressure regulator with multiple inlet ports, some inexpensive fuel injection hose, and a few hydraulic adapters.
The K Series fuel rail has only a single inlet. That's because, unlike your Honda Civic, K Series-equipped cars feature return-less fuel systems. The aftermarket regulator's multiple inlet ports lets you circumvent any difference between the two systems. Start by mounting it someplace that makes you happy, like on the firewall. A feed line must span from the Civic's original fuel filter to any of the regulator's upper ports. Do this inexpensively by stripping the fuel filter's banjo fitting of its rubber hose and steel collar. You'll need a hacksaw or angle grinder to do this. What you're left with is a nipple that'll let you slide a $2 section of 5/16-inch fuel injection hose over it. What slips over the hose's other end depends on whatever regulator you've got. In this case, the regulator features -6 AN female-threaded ports. An O-ring-sealed -6 union threads into the regulator and adapts to a similarly sized AN-to-barb adapter. Keep costs down by using cheapo steel fittings instead of aluminum.
Route fuel into the rail the same way, only this time, strip the rail's inlet of its connection. A third and final line that connects to the regulator's lower port slips over the metal return line at the firewall. Smaller, 1/4-inch fuel injection hose must be used here. Finally, they're more expensive, but spend the dough on fuel injection-specific hose clamps. Unlike worm gear clamps, they won't cut into the hose when tightened and burn your K-swap to the ground.