How cool would it be to be Dr. Gregory House for a day? You get to be as much of a mean-spirited, sarcastic, condescending prick as you want, and there's not a damn thing anyone could do about it, because you know your shit. Well, the automotive world has its own Dr. House, only he comes with a shinier dome, two fewer vowels in his name, extensive knowledge from which to draw, and personal experiences the likes of which you and I can only dream. And, if push came to shove, Eric Hsu would definitely take Dr. House in a fight. Just sayin'.
Horsepower Dilemmas
I've been looking to purchase an AE86 hatch, but was curious as to why people have such a hard time breaking the 200hp mark using the 16- or 20-valve engine. My goal is to achieve a reliable 250-300 hp-would that be enough to beat on some Mustangs? I have friends who talk a lot of crap, claiming American cars are the best, and that Japanese cars like the Corolla are slow and unreliable.
-David Hendersonvia importtuner.com
When it comes to production engines, there's usually no replacement for displacement. The Toyota 4AG was designed in the early '80s before the era of computer modeling and simulations that make today's engines so good. The 4AG doesn't benefit from VTEC, variable cam timing, turbos or any other modern technology. In stock form, the head doesn't flow well, has small valves and cams, low-compression pistons and a displacement of only a 1.6 L. For the 4AG to make over 200 hp, it needs quite a bit of work: high compression pistons, bigger cams, head work, and a better intake manifold. It's never easy being the small guy, right? If you dump enough time and money into any engine it could smoke Mustangs, but dump that same amount of time and money into a Mustang and it'll be faster in a straight line. The AE86's only real advantage is from its lightweight design and ability to transport mass quantities of tofu in the trunk.
Turbos Vs. NA
I am an avid reader of 2NR and find myself dreaming of making a ride worthy of your magazine one day. Although I have basic knowledge of engine tuning, I am torn between going turbo or NA with my daily driven '99 Integra LS. I do not want to end up buying another car-I just want to make this one faster. I realize that turbo is the best way to go for power, but I fear reliability issue on long drives if I decide to push between 200-250 hp with a buildup budget of 2,500 dollars. What are my best options and can you recommend brands that you believe would offer the best bang for the buck?
-Anonymousvia importtuner.com
For a reliable power goal of 200-250 hp with an LS engine, your only real option would be turbo power. You could obtain 200 naturally aspirated horsepower, but your car would run rough, loud, and maintain shitty gas mileage driving around town. Find yourself a used turbo kit in good condition, or piece one together yourself, but most importantly-get yourself a good engine management. It's the engine management that will keep it reliable and fun. DO NOT CHEAP OUT ON The ECU And Fuel System. Give the guys at Hondata a call.
Power Tuning
I own a '91 CRX DX with a JDM B18C Type R motor, with plans of using a Hondata S300 for fuel management. The Hondata was recently purchased and has yet to run on the new engine. Is it safe to simply plug in the ECU and drive the car with a base map, or should I have it tuned first? Also, I've had a hard time looking for the right catalytic converter. Does any company make converters specifically for swaps like this? The B18 header has a 2.5-inch outlet, and the stock CRX converter has a smaller inlet diameter of 2.25 inches. Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated.
-Anonymousvia importtuner.com
If you have to ask about the ECU, get it professionally tuned. And sometimes you need to fabricate in order to get things done right. Get yourself a stock cat from a VTEC car or a high-flow cat, and go to your local muffler shop to make it all work.
Boost Controller
I've upgraded my first-generation Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX with a front-mount intercooler, 2.5-inch piping, blow-off valve, 20G turbo, and a three-inch turbo-back exhaust system. My question is which boost controller would be best to crank up the boost?
-Rogelio PimentelCoalinga, CA
Everyone has a different opinion, but I always recommend electronic boost controllers for consistent and reliable performance, and the best possible boost curve. I have no idea why people still use mechanical boost controllers. We live in '09, where technology is your friend. Do you want to crank your windows, or push a button? My current low-buck, super-reliable boost controller is the ARK Design ABC. It's cheap, simple to use, and gets the job done.
Proper Tuning
I am currently based in Iraq with plans to modify my '08 WRX sedan when I return with a turbo back exhaust, intake, and aftermarket blow-off valve. I was wondering if I should run the Cobb AccessPORT or go get it tuned professionally with future plans that include a front-mount intercooler and a bigger turbo.
-Bretvia importtuner.com
For a simple and reliable setup, you might want to get the Cobb AccessPORT, Cobb intake, and Cobb exhaust. This way you can use one of their pre-loaded maps, flash it into the ECU, and enjoy. If you can get your hands on a stock STI bypass valve, I would go with that instead. It's cheap and reliable and doesn't make your engine bay look like you bought your shit on eBay. Cobb spends a good deal of time developing their products and is proven on the streets and track alike.